Designer Profile: Yeohlee Teng, YEOHLEE
Zen Master
Above the hustle and bustle that is unique to 7th Avenue in New York City, philosophy is being sewn into wearable design. Walk off the street and into Yeohlee's studio, where serene frosted spa-like doors and screens float against white walls and above white painted wood flooring, and feel your body sigh with relief, calmed by the sudden absence of chaos. Black leather café chairs and a table for working clarify the emptiness, while a wall of windows play back drop to the mass of potted greenery. Kurt Cobain wails from the stereo speakers. Loudly.
When Yeohlee enters, she exudes the rock-n-roll purity of her surroundings. She is peace with an edge - Intensely serene, defiantly mellow, confident, inviting, tough, real. The tranquillity of a harp song played with electric guitar sensibilities. Soft and strong all at once. Her presence is consuming but not tiring, intense but not provocative, welcoming and sincere, but not in a typical way. She is not cozy, yet I feel well at home. Her assistant brings her a double espresso, which she calls a "shot in the arm" and I can not imagine any substance of which she is not in complete control.
Yeohlee is interested in the Shamanistic qualities of clothing. "If you look at people in religion and in stations of power," she explains, "they always have a really tall hat or a large cape or something special, and these clothes imbue them with power." She speaks of the essence of clothing and the way that essence becomes part of the wearer. Of this effect Yeohlee explains "This power is not as obvious in sportswear, but there are details that can be put into clothes and a certain sense of proportion that can lend the wearer strength and power." She continues "You know that when you have something on which is special and you enter a room, all eyes are on you, people watch you. There is something to be said about the power of clothes."
This is a concept that, in Yeohlee's opinion, makes sense to the everyday woman because whether or not we have thought consciously about this quality, we have all experienced it. We all know that feeling great in our clothes can impart us with self confidence, we carry ourselves with more confidence if our clothing is right. On the flip side, we all have sensed the awkwardness of feeling inappropriately dressed in some way, and we carry ourselves accordingly. Clothes have energy and Yeohlee is keenly aware of that energy and takes steps to create pieces from which strong and positive energy flows.
Yeohlee has been incorporated since 1981. When I asked her to share the point in her career when she first felt validated as a designer, she spoke of her first collection, which consisted of five basic pieces. "I was thinking about what we as women really need and want, and I boiled it down to basics" she explains. Yeohlee continues "I thought about where the women I want to dress shop, and so I went to those stores, first Henri Bendels, then Bergdorf Goodman, then Sachs Fifth Avenue." Yeohlee represented herself, a brave step for a one woman show, and doors kept opening up for her. Vogue magazine believed in her early on and photographed her clothes and recommended stores to her that they thought would buy her collection. Many people believed in her vision, and she believed in herself. When asked if this starting out process was intimidating or scary, Yeohlee answers in calm matter-of-factness that it was exciting, a challenge she was ready to take. She tells me, "I think that everybody should have conviction and believe in themselves. Its very important that you know yourself and think for yourself and that you have the courage to carry through your convictions and what you believe in. Its very simple and basic, but important."
Yeohlee is a connoisseur of popular culture, and she soaks in elements from the world around her for inspiration, whether that be a newsflash on the E-bola virus, or a movie such as The Matrix. As a designer she believes staying culturally informed is key, a responsibility, and she indulges her constant quest for knowledge and ideas in books, music, movies, cartoons, anything. But mostly, she simply loves to dress women and they are the most integral source for her vision. On this she says "Their needs, their wants, their aspirations inspire me - I like to think of my work as something that helps them attain their goals and gives them strength." She mentions enjoying the particular thrill of helping young women choose their first interview outfit [something that will give them the sense of confidence they will need to interview well, a modern day armor of sorts] an interaction that is inspiring for the wearer and for her.
Recently Yeohlee collaborated on a show in Berlin with Dr. Kenneth Jung, an architect from Southeast Asia. The show entitled "Energetics: Clothes and Enclosures" explored clothes as second skin and its analogy to modern architecture. Yeohlee was taken with the comparisons of structure and enjoyed the task of viewing both disciplines in a similar manner - clothes to enclose the physical body, structures to enclose the larger whole. Of the show she said "It was inspiring, the way it makes one reconsider the things we do and the way we see things." Yeohlee is clear that her biggest thrill as a designer is a perpetual and unending state of being, that each step has been important and necessary. Like her design work, she seems to live intentionally, thoughtfully, with purpose - a vital life - a participant in the every moment.
Yeohlee tells me that her mother was an early source of inspiration and that she and her mother collaborated on their clothing. Yeohlee had an active role in what she wore growing up and her mother and she would read fashion magazines and discuss clothing choices. Yeohlee loved her school uniforms. "My mother had a certain sense of style, as did my grandmother," Yeohlee explains, and says she derived inspiration from the search of excellence she saw in her mother and which she sees in other women "wherever you see it, whether in the gardener, the bee keeper - its the standard that people set which inspires." "I adore my mother," she continues, "She was very beautiful and really elegant."
But even with this early awareness of clothing, Yeohlee was slated to become a lawyer. She was captain of her school debate team, and her family assumed law might be the logical step. She chose the riskier path in fashion design. When I ask Yeohlee if there is a particular accomplishment of which she feels most proud, she tells me "I feel more humble than proud. I think that it is a privilege to be able to do what you want to do and to be able to carry out whatever vision you have, so I feel humble." And with the calmly direct and well thought out temperance that I am learning is her trademark, Yeohlee defines female beauty by saying "I think it does come from the soul. I think that people radiate beauty, and I don't think its whether your eye lashes are long or your lips are full, its the quality of the person that you are that defines your beauty. And I think it shines through your eyes." And hers do.
Yeohlee is a designer who believes that clothing is an intimate form of architecture. The Malaysian-born designer came to NY to study at Parsons School of Design. She has since established a name synonymous for its strong geometric designs and concise functionalism. Yeohlee dresses the "urban nomad", one who must not only adapt to constant changes in environment, but also needs to be streamlined and efficient in how time is managed. Clothes must be comfortable, functional, low maintenance, and effective in influencing perception. Her Fall 99 collection showcased fashion as visual objects. Her creations are simple components articulated in a rigorous manner that enable the body to move with great ease and comfort. The design is in the construction; the seams are the decoration. Every decision is a design detail, and there is an awareness of the human form sheltered in negative space.
Yeohlee is a master of design management. She practices maximum utilization of fabric and believes in the efficiency of year-round, seasonless clothes. Yeohlee's designs have earned a permanent place in the Costume Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, where Richard Martin, Chief Curator, calls her "one of the most ingenious makers of clothing today."
For Yeohlee, connecting with her world is the vehicle for her own sense of happiness. She says "I think that when you make a connection with another person, its a very special feeling. Communicating well is a real reward. When you successfully reach somebody, it makes you feel good - It makes me feel good." To that end, Yeohlee teaches design at the prominent Fashion Institute of Technology, a task she finds endlessly inspiring. "It has been a reward for me to watch where the students take the project I put forth."
For Yeohlee, it would be impossible to name a single favorite designer. "I find inspiration from different aspects of what other people do" she says. But she admires the influence of the Japanese designers in particular, because, as she explains, "I feel that the Japanese designers created a major avenue and had a strong hand in influencing the Europeans and that the Belgians wouldn't be where they are today if not for the risks that the Japanese designers took. They really evolved clothing and helped make the marriage between east and west work by opening up the visual dialogue that we are still seeing the fruits of now. There is a huge legacy there."
In the industry, Yeohlee is referred to as the "fashion intellectual" which goes hand in hand with how she dresses her customer - the thinking woman. She says "I like to imagine that the woman who wears my clothes reads, and thinks. I like writers. Lot of my friends are writers" and she has a pet theory that those who can express themselves in writing must have a clear and honest thinking process because they are able to take in a lot of information and organize it and present it in an interesting manner. She is interested in information and communication and the process of translating those into her work. Connecting is key to Yeohlee's work and seems vital to her very existence. "The quality of the connection will show itself in the final hour, so I take care to be precise and honest with others" she says, "clothes are communication - our message to each other."
Side Bar Blurb:
In the Spring of 2000, Yeohlee will be participating in an exhibition entitled "Fashion Creation in Fabrics, 1960 - 2000" a show that will explore new generations of fabric which are at the origin of contemporary clothing revolutions in the United States, Europe and Japan. The show is scheduled to be held at the Galleria Museum, the Fashion Museum of the City of Paris.
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Girl on the Go
For the last three months I have traveled from Singapore to New York, San Francisco, Santa Fe, Los Angeles, Napa Valley, Southern Utah, London, Aspen then back to Singapore and while this mini world tour was exciting, it was difficult to pack for and even harder to keep looking good on. And since the trip was for a variety of meetings and social events, all very important, packing wisely and looking hot were both a MUST. My purse loaded down with Evian Atomizers and having packed two overstuffed cases with everything from formal attire to bathing suit and surrong, here's what I did, what I wore and what I learned:
NEW YORK - Big interview with Joan Chen on the set of her new movie:
WHAT I DID: Got my first BIG celebrity interview and was scheduled to be on the set with Joan Chen for an 8am call. She was directing Richard Gere (YES he's very good looking in real life) and Wynona Ryder for the upcoming film "Autumn in New York". As luck would have it, the two days I was scheduled to join the crew on the Central Park set ended up being absolutely perfect New York days. Lots of beautiful trees boasting red and gold leaves, a crisp breeze and bright sun. I was a bit intimidated by the mystique of a film crew and knew I had to feel comfortable AND smart if I was going to endure the hours of waiting for my chance to speak with Joan.
WHAT I WORE: My light gray wool dress from MANGO was perfect for it's modern, bias cut, sleeveless comfort and wrinkle-free durability. Black, flat Mary Jane flats and crocheted shawl with fringe, movie star shades and hair clipped off my face and light, natural makeup were the perfect combination. I ended up doing more walking than I'd realized, so the flats were great.
WHAT I LEARNED: Movie stars are people too, sort of. Most folks were really nice and down to earth and after the initial hour, I felt relaxed and composed. Oh, and one more thing - after 20 takes of the same scene, even Richard Geere is boring to watch.
Santa Fe, New Mexico Bachelorette "Hen" Party Weekend Bash:
WHAT I DID: Ten girls descended upon the normally serene Santa Fe town to celebrate the upcoming nuptials of our dear friend Annie. Leaving all things silly back at home (high heels, makeup, men!) we indulged in heavy drinking, heavy spa-ing and hours of chatter. Each night we went to a swanky dinner followed by dancing at any one of the myriad bars. Our first day in town, we each purchased our own cowboy hat, and by the end of the weekend we quite a reputation around the small New Mexico town we'd enter establishments and bar tenders would say "Oh, I've heard about you girls" it was loads of fun and a perfect "end of singledom" for our engaged friend.
WHAT I WORE: Comfort was king on this trip big fluffy white robes, flannel pajamas (it was freezing at night), cowboy boots, heavy jeans and big buckled belts. And of course, my cowboy hat.
WHAT I LEARNED: Nothing is sexier than a whole pack of girls out on the town. Nothing.
Los Angeles Thanksgiving Feast with close friends and family at the home where I grew up:
WHAT I DID: Seeing my family after upwards of six months was a real treat. Sleeping in the bed I grew up in, listening to holiday music ring through air, and even the sort of warm squabbles that are the essence of HOME SWEET HOME were all a welcome relief from months on the road, depending on whatever comfort a rented apartment or hotel room can offer. Board games, BBQs, brand new babies just hanging out and soaking up the warmth of family.
WHAT I WORE: Even though I had to pack several business suits, formal attire and bulky shoes, I made sure to save room for some of my favorite loungeware, because nothing is worse than being uncomfortable. Fleece drawstring pants, trainers, cashmere pullover sweaters and cotton tees were the chosen "uniform" for hanging with the home crew.
WHAT I LEARNED: Absence makes the heart grow fonder..And Vise Versa!
Napa Valley, California Formal bash at a winery for a New Year's Eve Millennium Bash:
WHAT I DID: As luck would have it, my dear friend Andrew broke with his girlfriend only a few weeks prior to New Year's Eve, so I was his replacement date. The party took place at a private home which rested on the property of a huge winery called Auberge del Soleil in the gorgeous wine country in Northern California. The party was an elegant affair and we danced in a tent, enjoyed cocktails on a patio under the stars and indulged in excellent food and company.
WHAT I WORE: Wanting to be a least a little festive, I wore a huge pair of blue and silver butterfly wings on my back, over a long, silver satin sleeveless dress. Applying all that glitters, I had glitter gel in my hair, glitter lotion on my face, blue glitter nail polish, glitter in my lipgloss and on my eyelids. Silvery spike heels made it about half way through the night.
WHAT I LEARNED: Surprisingly, there IS such a thing as TOO MUCH GLITTER. Every picture looked like a glare of light hit my face - I would have been wise to curb the glitter display. But the wings, now THEY were a hit!
Southern Utah Camping in the red rock desert:
WHAT I DID: Our family met up in one of my favorite places on the globe, the red rock desert of Southern Utah. We spent a few days in Zion's National Park, a breathtaking spot with views as wild as a Georgia O'Keefe painting. Fresh air and the sweet smell of sage brush offered the perfect all-natural spa "treatment" to rival those of any elite establishment. No makeup, lots of water, plenty of sunscreen and deep breathing that's living!
WHAT I WORE: Nylon athletic pants were the best option. Lightweight and big enough to pull on over long-underwear for the colder days, my nylons pants were great for jumping over rocks or climbing gnarled terrain. Bulky sweaters and hiking boots, a bandana to keep my hair out of the way and lots of clean socks kept me feeling great while roughin' it in the great outdoors.
WHAT I LEARNED: Listen to the quiet. Breathe in the stillness. Peace comes from with in, but it is much easier to notice in the serenity of nature.
London, UK Meetings:
WHAT I DID: Thankfully, just as everyone in the US was coming down with a nasty flu, I hopped on a plane to London to meet up with a dear friend and fellow column writer for four fast days of writing. Having come from relatively warm California, I was expecting to freeze! And I did. But all those cute, chic girls in the Hamstead area with their foxy short hair cuts influenced me and I ended up ducking into a chop shop and coming out with my own new boyishly hip haircut.
WHAT I WORE: Leather jumper, black wool ribbed turtleneck sweater, bright pink tights and matching wool wrap, knee high space boots kept me feeling warm while looking hip. The neoprene boots with their soft, rubber heels were perfect for negotiating uneven cobble streets. A walk through the soggy Heath called for well-worn rugged boots, thick wool sweater and ribbed corduroy pants.
WHAT I LEARNED: Everything seems fabulous in London even the simple task of enjoying a coffee at a quaint little coffeehouse.
Aspen, Colorado for My best friend's wedding:
WHAT I DID: My best friend in the whole world got married against a backdrop of huge snowcapped mountains inside a warm, solid oak log cabin. After two days of skiing and snowboarding, the 'black tie' event was a welcome elegant break. The ceremony was followed by hours of dancing, toasting the lovely couple and even singing around a roaring fire pit outdoors on the deck under the stars.
WHAT I WORE: I wore a full length, black cheom sung and black high-heal Mary Janes with an electric blue wool wrap.
WHAT I LEARNED: Maybe I do want to get married!
